Nestled in the heart of Indiana, the small city of Columbus might just be the most unlikely architectural mecca in the United States. Far from the bustling metropolises typically associated with groundbreaking design, Columbus boasts a collection of world-class Modernist buildings and public art, earning it the moniker "Athens on the Prairie."
The roots of Columbus's architectural renaissance can be traced back to industrialist and philanthropist J. Irwin Miller, the former chairman of Cummins Engine Company. In the mid-20th century, Miller had a revolutionary idea: to pay the architectural fees for new public buildings in Columbus, provided clients agreed to choose from a list of top-tier modern architects. The result was a town transformed by cutting-edge design, where even schools and fire stations are architectural landmarks.
The city’s architectural identity begins with the First Christian Church (1942), designed by Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen (1873-1950) in the 1940s. This stark yet elegant building is considered one of the first modernist churches in the USA. Its clean lines, flat surfaces, and soaring tower broke with traditional ecclesiastical styles and set the tone for what would follow.
The Library of Experience (formerly the North Christian Church), designed by Eliel’s son, Eero Saarinen (1910-1961), commands attention with its dramatic, tent-like roof and needlepoint spire. Completed in the 1960s, the former church feels almost futuristic, yet perfectly grounded in its landscaped surroundings. Another work of his is the Irwin Conference Center (formerly Irwin Union Bank, 1954). With its low, glassy profile and open interior plan, it was radically transparent, both literally and philosophically. It blurred the line between private finance and public space, and it remains a benchmark in commercial architectural design. Also, be sure to see the Miller House and Garden (1957), a National Historic Landmark and the private residence of J. Irwin Miller himself. With interiors by Alexander Girard and landscaping by Dan Kiley, the house is a masterclass in mid-century modernism. Built with horizontal planes, open living spaces, and an elegant use of materials, the house reflects the values of function, harmony, and human-centered design. It is now operated by the Indianapolis Museum of Art and open to the public through guided tours.
Other celebrated architects have left their mark here as well. I. M. Pei (1917-2019), of the Louvre Pyramid fame, designed the Cleo Rogers Memorial Library (1969), a solid, red-brick structure that creates a civic plaza alongside the First Christian Church. Kevin Roche (1922-2019) is responsible for several key structures, including parts of the Cummins Headquarters. His contributions demonstrate a commitment to contemporary design within the city's fabric. Robert Venturi (1925-2018) was a pioneer of Postmodernism. His Fire Station Number Four (1966) challenges traditional architectural norms with its symmetrical yet deceptively complex facade. The First Baptist Church (1965) of Harry Weese (1915-1998) is another notable example of modernist religious architecture in Columbus. Myron Goldsmith (1918-1996) designed the Republic Newspaper Building (1971), with a sleek, glass-and-aluminum envelope encasing the former press floor, this structure captures industrial transparency and Modernist efficiency. It's now home to Indiana University’s architecture program, and is one of seven Columbus buildings listed as a National Historic Landmark. St. Peter’s Lutheran Church (1988), designed by Gunnar Birkerts (1925-2017), features a copper-clad spire and organic, flowing forms integrated with its landscape. Among more recent additions is Deborah Berke's design for the Hope Library (1998) in nearby Hope, which showcases a minimalist approach to Modernism.
There is landscape architecture and public art to behold as well. Mill Race Park (1993), designed by Michael Van Valkenburgh, with follies by Stanley Saitowitz, restores a historic covered bridge and adds observation towers, a boathouse, and river overlooks all rendered in a sculptural, site-sensitive context. Public artworks like Henry Moore’s (1898-1986) Large Arch and Jean Tinguely’s (1925-1991) Chaos I inject sculpture into everyday downtown rhythm, reflecting artistic ambitions matched to architectural boldness.
To truly appreciate this extraordinary collection, guided tours are highly recommended. The Columbus Visitors Center offers various options:
Architectural Highlights Tour by Shuttle: A comprehensive two-hour tour covering dozens of significant buildings and sites with minimal walking.
Miller House and Garden Guided Tour: A 90-minute immersive experience within this iconic mid-century modern residence. Advance reservations are strongly advised as these tours often sell out.
Iconic Columbus Guided Walking Tour: Explore downtown on foot, delving into how modern buildings seamlessly blend with historic Victorian storefronts.
For those who prefer to explore at their own pace, self-guided maps and audio tours are also available. If you want to get a taste of Columbus before you go, stream the critically acclaimed 2017 film, Columbus, which happens to be about an architectural scholar being stranded in Columbus and striking up a friendship with an architecture enthusiast.
Columbus offers a unique experience for architecture enthusiasts. In a landscape often dominated by sameness, this Indiana town proves what’s possible when good design is treated not as a luxury, but as a civic responsibility.